Types of leather: a guide to quality and craftsmanship

Leather is one of the most ancient and expressive materials used in craftsmanship. Yet, not all leather is created equal.Understanding the different types of leather helps you make more informed, conscious choices—especially when investing in pieces designed to last over time.

At Bottega Moderna, we carefully select only leathers that reflect our values: quality, durability, tradition, and respect for craftsmanship. This guide explains the main types of leather and highlights the materials we choose for our collections.

What defines the quality of leather?

Leather quality depends on several factors:

• which layer of the hide is used

• how it is processed and tanned

• how much it is treated or altered

• how it ages over time

The most important distinction lies in the layer of the hide and the tanning process.

Full grain leather

The highest quality leather available.

Full grain leather is made from the top layer of the hide, left completely intact. It has not been sanded or corrected, preserving the natural grain, markings, and texture of the leather.

Characteristics:

• Extremely durable and resistant

• Develops a rich, natural patina over time

• Each piece is unique

Full grain leather improves with age. Scratches and signs of wear become part of the leather’s story rather than flaws.

We select full grain leather for designs meant to age beautifully and accompany everyday life for years.

Top grain leather

Refined, elegant, and versatile.

Top grain leather also comes from the upper layer of the hide, but it is lightly sanded to remove surface imperfections, resulting in a more uniform appearance.

Characteristics:

• Smooth and consistent surface

• High quality and soft to the touch

• Less patina development than full grain

Top grain leather balances durability with a more polished aesthetic.

We use top grain leather when a clean, minimal look is essential to the design, without compromising longevity.

Vegetable-tanned leather (Vacchetta)

A symbol of Italian artisanal tradition.

Vegetable-tanned leather—often referred to as vacchetta leather—is cowhide tanned using natural tannins derived from plants, such as tree bark and leaves.

Characteristics:

• Naturally light in color

• Darkens and evolves with time, light, and touch

• Free from synthetic chemical treatments

This slow tanning process requires time and skill, resulting in leather that is durable, breathable, and uniquely expressive.

Vacchetta leather represents the essence of slow luxury: materials that transform through use and become personal over time.

Corrected grain leather

Function over authenticity.

Corrected grain leather has been heavily sanded and coated to remove imperfections.

Characteristics:

• Uniform appearance

• Limited patina development

• Less breathable and less durable

We generally avoid corrected grain leather, as it prioritizes surface perfection over authenticity and longevity.

Split leather and suede

Used selectively and with intention.

Split leather comes from the lower layers of the hide. Suede is a type of split leather with a soft, velvety finish.

Characteristics:

• Softer texture

• Less durable than top layers

• Requires careful maintenance

When used, split leather is chosen only for specific designs where softness and texture are essential.

What leather do we choose at Bottega Moderna?

Our selection focuses on:

• Full grain leather

• Top grain leather

• Vegetable-tanned cowhide (vacchetta)

  
  

These materials reflect our commitment to:

• Italian craftsmanship

• durability and repairability

• conscious, slow production

• timeless design over trendsù

  
  

Every leather we choose is selected to age with grace and purpose.

Understanding leather helps you appreciate not only how a bag looks, but how it will feel and evolve over time.The materials we select are chosen with care, tradition, and longevity in mind—because true luxury is not about excess, but about intention.